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| Promise of Life - istanbul european capital of culture 2010 |
| 03.14.08 (12:45 am) [edit] |
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| Istanbul Nightlife |
| 03.13.08 (11:30 pm) [edit] |
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Here is my updated Itinerary. I need to add these evening activities. Suggestions for which days to add them? belly dance, traditional Turkish music, Turkish jazz?, whirling dervishes, Hamdi restaurant. Monday Dec. 24. arrive about 4 pm Blue Mosque Hammam Tuesday Grande Bazaar/Spice Bazaar, Dolmabahce Wednesday Topkapi Palace,Hagia Sophia,Hippodrome,Cistern Thursday 1/2 day Jewish Tour, Taksim Friday Buy rug, Market, Chora Church or Boat Cruise Istanbul Nightlife
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| I am listening to Istanbul - Orhan Veli KANIK |
| 03.12.08 (2:29 am) [edit] |
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I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed; At first there blows a gentle breeze And the leaves on the trees Softly flutter or sway; Out there, far away, The bells of water carriers incessantly ring; I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.
I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed; Then suddenly birds fly by, Flocks of birds, high up, in a hue and cry While nets are drawn in the fishing grounds And a woman's feet begin to dabble in the water. I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.
I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed. The Grand Bazaar is serene and cool, A hubbub at the hub of the market, Mosque yards are brimful of pigeons, At the docks while hammers bang and clang Spring winds bear the smell of sweat; I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.
I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed; Still giddy since bygone bacchanals, A seaside mansion with dingy boathouses is fast asleep, Amid the din and drone of southern winds, reposed, I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.
I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed. Now a dainty girl walks by on the sidewalk: Cusswords, tunes and songs, malapert remarks; Something falls on the ground out of her hand, It's a rose I guess. I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.
I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed; A bird flutters round your skirt; I know your brow is moist with sweat And your lips are wet. A silver moon rises beyond the pine trees: I can sense it all in your heart's throbbing. I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.
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| 36 Hours in Istanbul |
| 03.11.08 (11:46 pm) [edit] |
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Correction Appended
THE Turks have changed tactics. For centuries, the sultans of Istanbul sent forth their armies, seizing territories across Europe, the Middle East and North Africa. This time, it's a style offensive. And the spoils of the conquests are everywhere. Downbeat neighborhoods have re-emerged as artist and night life enclaves. Medieval Ottoman motifs are winding up on T-shirts and design products. Plain kebabs are getting epicurean makeovers, and Old World hammams are being converted into jet-setters' spas. With architecture from the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman periods as a backdrop, Istanbul is now the rare place where readers of Archeology and Wallpaper magazines can clink glasses with equal zeal. Friday 5 p.m. 1) Super Market Get disoriented at the six-century-old Grand Bazaar (Yaglikcilar Caddesi, Beyazit), which has about 60 lanes holding 4,000-odd shops packed to the rafters with tea sets, gaudy gold, backgammon boards and enough water pipes for a Cheech and Chong marathon. Bypass the trinket slingers and hit EthniCon (Kapalicarsi Takkeciler Sokak 58-60; 90-212-527-6841; www.ethnicon.com), a store where old Turkish rugs are cut into rectangles and reworked into arty modernist carpet collages. Next, do like Jean-Paul Gaultier, Donna Karan and Sting, and head to Sivasli Yazmaci (Yaglikcilar 57; 90-212-526-7748) for gorgeous textiles — new and vintage — in silk, wool and cotton. 7 p.m. 2) Goodbye, Europe Take a 15-minute ferry through time — and across continents — from Eminonu terminal in Europe (Iskele 2, Eminonu; 90-212-455-6900; www.ido.com.tr; 1.30 new lira) to the Kadikoy district in Asia. Crossing the Bosphorus at dusk, you'll have knockout views of the illuminated minarets of the medieval Suleymaniye Mosque, the fairy-tale Galata Tower, the vast dome of the Hagia Sophia and the majestic walls of the Topkapi and Dolmabahce Palaces. Don't be surprised if you feel a little less Occidental upon arrival. 8 p.m. 3) Anatolian Comfort Food For those who don't have a Turkish grandfather to cook traditional dishes, there's Musa Dagdeviren, the Turkish-Kurdish proprietor of Ciya Sofrasi (Guneslibahce Sokak 43, Kadikoy; 90-216-330-3190; www.ciya.com.tr). A culinary Indiana Jones, he gathers gustatory secrets from remote provinces and serves a menu that may include ezo gelin (lentil soup with oregano and red pepper), diyarbakir guvec (a savory stew of lamb, tomatoes and soft eggplants) and kuru sebze domalsi (eggplant stuffed with rice and lamb). He is also a Midas of fruits, transforming them into golden juices (tamarind, anyone?) and desserts like candied pumpkin slices. The menu is in Turkish, so take a Turkish friend or make one at the restaurant. A three-course meal runs a mere 30 lira, about $22 at 1.37 lira to the dollar. 10 p.m. 4) Go-Go Beyoglu The Beyoglu district has been transformed in recent years from a desultory dump into a buzzing night life district where you can scarcely hurl an olive without hitting someone making the scene in old-school Nikes. For a nightcap with the older intellectual set, head to the House Café (Asmali Mescit 9/1, 90-212-245-9515; www9.thehousecafe9.com.tr), order a bottle of Turkish Sarafin cabernet (75 lira) and make clever remarks about post-structuralism. To gyrate with young Turks, visit Wanna (Mesrutiyet Caddesi 151, 90-212-243-1794; www9.istanbuldoors9.com), where foreign D.J.'s keep young professionals in Mavi jeans dancing alongside the aluminum bar until the wee hours. Saturday 10 a.m. 5) Lifestyles of the Rich Why leave the house when you're an Ottoman sultan living in Topkapi Palace — Turkey's answer to Versailles?. The 10 a.m. harem tour (Sultanahmet; 90-212-512-0480; www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr; 10 lira) unveils the sultans' wild world of multiple wives, eunuchs and dwarf entertainers. Walk through opulent vaulted chambers decorated in blue Iznik tiles and stained glass, then check out the religious relics, which include facial hair and a letter said to be from the Prophet Muhammad. Top it off with a look at the royal treasury, filled with bejeweled spoils from Ottoman conquests, and a skull fragment purportedly from history's most famous headless hero, John the Baptist. Noon 6) Rocks of Ages Thousands of tiny, tightly packed shards. It doesn't sound like much, until you witness the exquisitely wrought mosaics glowing from the old walls and domed ceilings of the medieval Church of St. Savior in Chora (Kariye Camii Sokak 26, Edirnekapi, 90-212-631-9241; 10 lira entry). Take binoculars or a zoom lens to fully appreciate the detailed facial expression on Christ the Savior; the poignant allegory of a sick woman crawling to Jesus; and the rich reds, deep blues and dazzling Klimt-like golds that render the Biblical scenes. The church (sometimes called Kariye Mosque) also houses amazingly preserved frescoes. Don't miss the action-packed "Harrowing of Hell," in which Jesus breaks through Hell's gates, tramples Satan underfoot and yanks Adam and Eve from their coffins. 2:30 p.m. 7)Burnished Kebabs Imagine if New York's top chefs began fetishizing the hot dog, dressing it with truffles and foie gras. That's akin to what's happening in Istanbul, where the once plebian lamb kebab has been resurrected by high-end restaurants. Join Turkish socialites and yuppies in the angular modern confines of Komsu (Vali Konagi Caddesi Isik Apt 8B, Nisantasi; 90-212-224-9666; www.komsu-kebap.com) for sogan kebabs (ground lamb topped with pomegranate sauce), acili kebabs (ground lamb with hot spices) and the succulent komsu kebab (ground lamb with pastrami and cheddar cheese). Non-kebab offerings include lamb ribs and diced cubes of, yes, lamb. Dinner for two runs about 60 lira. 4 p.m. 8) Ottomania You won't find the Nisantisi district on postcards or in most travel guides. But its tony streets and Art Nouveau town houses are at the front lines of a style invasion, hijacking traditional Ottoman designs for contemporary-cool textiles and housewares. The shop of the fashion designer Gonul Paksoy (Atiye Sokak 6A, Tesvikiye; 90-212-261-9081) sells handmade velvet slippers, silk overcoats, embroidered purses and tribal-style jewelry. To outfit your personal palace, hit the local shop of Pasabahce (Tesvikiye Caddesi 117; 90-212-233-5005; www9.pasabahce9.com.tr) for smooth vases covered in Islamic geometric patterns, jewelry boxes adorned with Byzantine mosaics and ceramic coasters with faded kilim designs. And for the home hammam, snap up the olive-leaf body lotion and rose soaps at Roen (Sakayik Sokak 13/27; 90-212-241-4114; www.roen.com.tr). 8 p.m. 9) Top-Flight Dining Dining at Mikla (Mesrutiyet Caddesi 167/185; 90-212-251-4646 ; www.istanbulyi.com) is like boarding an airplane. First, you must go through a metal detector in the lobby of the Marmara Pera Hotel. Then, you ascend to the top floor, where the panoramic views make you feel as though you're soaring above clouds. And the atmosphere is strictly first class: modern Scandinavian décor, a D.J. booth and a stylish crowd. The menu, however, is nothing like air travel: figs with prosciutto and Gorgonzola; lamb entrecôte with apricot confit; star anise and fennel-pear terrine with basil ice cream. A three- course meal for two runs about 140 lira. 11 p.m. 10) Bet on Blackk The award for Istanbul's most monochromatic nightclub — black leather banquettes, black tables, black floors, black curtains, black-clad servers — goes to Blackk (Muallim Naci Caddesi 71, Ortakoy; 212-90-236-7256; www.blackk.net). Far from funereal, this two-year-old nightclub along the Bosphorus teems with the likes of the fashion designer Gianfranco Ferré; the president of Lukoil, Vagit Y. Alekperov; the former Washington restaurateur (and buddy of the Clintons) Sahir Erozan and other international moguls. No cover, but reservations are essential on weekends. Sunday 10 a.m. 11) Bath and Beyond You're bloated on kebabs. You've consumed raki and Red Bull. You're completely shopped out. Rejuvenation awaits you at Les Ottomans (Muallim Naci Caddesi 168, Kurucesme; 90-212-359-1500), a new palace hotel where the opulent hammam offers a modern spin on the traditional Turkish bath. Under a twinkling dome of artificial stars, an attendant will position you on a heated marble slab, douse you in hot water, rub your entire body with a rough glove, mummify you in foamy soap, massage your back, stretch your limbs, shampoo your hair, douse you again, briskly towel you off and then send you into the relaxation lounge for a glass of mint tea. A 30-minute session comes to 140 lira. Noon 12) An Artful Exit It's fitting that the city's most exciting cultural venue, the new Istanbul Modern museum (Meclis-i Mebusan Caddesi, Karakoy; 90-212-334-7300; www.istanbulmodern.org), sits next to a 16th-century mosque. Juxtaposed, they capture the twin poles of Istanbul: venerable and youthful, holy and avant-garde. The duality is echoed in several of the museum's contemporary artworks. Especially captivating are the desolate landscapes by Turan Erol, the circuitrylike abstractions of Ihsan Cemal Karaburcak and the grotesque characters of Mehmet Guleryuz. If you have time for coffee, the museum's sleek and airy restaurant has lovely waterside views — a final souvenir for your stay. Admission is 7 lira. The Basics Delta, American and Turkish airlines fly from New York to Istanbul from around $1,100 as of late April. Getting around is a breeze, thanks to cheap and abundant taxis. A trip between the old quarter of Sultanahmet and night life districts costs no more than 15 lira, or about $11 at 1.37 lira to the dollar. Partygoers should shimmy to the new Lush Hip Hotel in the Beyoglu night-life district (Siraselviler 50, Taksim, 90-212-243-9595; www.lushhiphotel.com). It is an early-20th-century town house with 22 large rooms, individually decorated in old-world Ottoman to colorful Pop Art styles. Doubles from 240 euros, or $334 at $1.39 to the euro. Also in Beyoglu, the new Misafir Suites (Gazeteci Erol Dernek Sokak 1; 90-212-249-8930; www.misafirsuites.com) offers high style at relatively low prices. Misafir's six spacious rooms have modern Scandinavian furniture, colorful Turkish fabrics and ample gadgetry (flat-screen TVs, DVD players and wireless Internet access). Doubles and triples are 150 euros, which includes an in-room breakfast of Turkish pastries, toast, juice, coffee, tomatoes, cheese and cucumbers. For luxury, nothing beats Les Ottomans (Muallim Naci Caddesi 168, Kurucesme; 90-212-359-1500; www.lesottomans.com). Airport transfer by yacht? Personal butler? It's all on tap at the year-old hotel, which has 12 suites in what was once a pasha's estate on the Bosphorus. Suites from 800 euros.
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| Introduction ... istanbul |
| 03.11.08 (11:34 pm) [edit] |
 Istanbul gets our vote for Europe’s most criminally underrated city (never mind that EU membership is still not forthcoming, Istanbul is very European). Spread over seven hills and surrounded on three sides by water, it is atonishingly beautiful. Ottoman minarets crown a skyline constructed on Byzantine foundations, while water ferries scoot between Bosphorus suburbs of wooden villas. The food is terrific, the nightlife goes on until dawn and the summer months feature a back-to-back line-up of crowd-pleasing international festivals. Despite having ruled over two empires, Istanbul (née Byzantium, née Constantinople) often feels like a city that’s only just finding its feet. But then, it’s barely 80 years since the country was overhauled by Ataturk, ‘the father of the Turks’, who presided over the founding of the Turkish Republic, and whose image is still ubiquitous. Only 20 years have passed since the end of military rule. In this respect, Istanbul is not unlike Prague or Budapest, newly emerged from decades of political isolationism (albeit self-imposed) and stunted social growth. Sultanahmet is the Istanbul of postcards and history. This small peninsula has witnessed more history than most countries. If you see only one building while here, make it the Haghia Sophia (‘Holy Wisdom’, Sultanahmet Square, 522 1750). After close to 1,000 years as a church and then 500 years as chief mosque of the Ottoman Empire, it’s now revered by Christians and Muslims alike. Directly north of Haghia Sophia is the imperial enclave of Topkapı Palace (Bab-ı Hümayün Caddesi, Gülhane, 512 0480, closed Tue). The palace was the hub of Ottoman power for more than three centuries, and for lavish decor and exquisite setting, it is a must-see. The Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque (At Meydanı Sokak 17, Sultanahmet, 458 0776) is the obvious mosque to visit, but try also to see one designed by Mimar Sinan, such as Suleymaniye, behind the Grand Bazaar, or Rüstem Pasa near the Galata Bridge. The Grand Bazaar is often claimed to be the world’s oldest shopping centre. The streets around it now host most of the real trading but the bazaar is still the centre for jewellery and the top place for fabrics. Downhill from the bazaar quarter is the Golden Horn, lined by long-neglected neighbourhoods that are now candidates for gentrification. The water is spanned by the modern Galata Bridge, which links the old city with the new to the north. Beyoglu is the commercial and cultural centre of town, concentrated around pedestrianised Istiklal Caddesi. One of the city’s newest attractions is the Istanbul Modern (Meclis-i Mebusan Caddesi, Antrepo 4, Karaköy, 334 7300, ), a good collection of modern local art. Having wiped six noughts from the banknotes in 2005, the Turkish Lira is now a respectable currency after decades of inflation. Turkish visas are available at the airport and cost £10 (cash only) for British nationals
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| Istanbul City Tour |
| 03.11.08 (11:29 pm) [edit] |
Old City Tour - Capital of the EmpiresExplore the main cultural highlights of Istanbul's opulent past - the grandiose Topkapi Palace, the glittering Grand Bazaar, the magnificent Hagia Sophia Church, the elegant Blue Mosque and ancient Hippodrome, set among the cobbled streets of the old Imperial quarter and heart of ancient Byzantium & Constantinople... Sample Itinerary: This guided City Tour of the old historical quarter starts after breakfast, when you are picked up from the hotel or port by our private guide. Begin with a visit to Topkapi Palace, the main residence of the Ottoman Sultans, with its jewel encrusted treasury and elegant four courts. After a lunch break, visit the main sights around Sultanahmet Square, including the famous Hagia Sophia Museum, once the largest church in the world for 1000 years, and decorated with stunning 6th century golden mosaics. Then visit the Blue Mosque, designed with 6 delicate minarets and a striking blue Iznik tiled interior. Nearby, take a stroll through the site of the ancient Hippodrome, once the sporting ground of chariots and political riots, and see the Egyptian Obelisk, Serpentine Column and Fountain of Wilhelm II. Finally, visit the Grand Bazaar, where you can shop or haggle with local merchants over unusual antiques, colorful spices, beautiful jewelry and richly textured fabrics. Drop off to hotel or cruise ship port.
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| Sultanahmet Mosque |
| 03.01.08 (12:28 pm) [edit] |
Sultanahmet Mosque, better known as the blue mosque is decorated with blue tiles and with its 6 minarets, instead of the usual 4, it belongs to the most famous buildings beside the Hagia Sophia. During the prayer hours hundreds of Muslims come here to pray. It is an impressing experience.
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| The Bosphorus |
| 03.01.08 (12:24 pm) [edit] |
The Bosphorus, the strait between the Asiatic and the European continent is connected by a 1 km long freely floating bridge and offers apart from the awful traffic, beautiful views on the two banks of the Bosphorus. A trip by ship or a long walk along the banks, you should not miss.
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| Istanbul |
| 03.01.08 (12:20 pm) [edit] |
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İstanbul - vacation pictures of Istanbul including Taksim Square, Bosphorus, Topkapi Palace, Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Galata Bridge, Galata Tower, Grand Bazaar, Independence Street, and more.
Istanbul- Constantinople- Byzanz. The city on two continents, situated at the Bosphorus between Marmarasea and black sea. Officially 9 million, unofficially 14 million inhabitants. Border between Asia and Europe, between Orient and Occident. Mosques and bazaars, western Lifestyle and deep tradition. The reason for our 4-day trip in Istanbul was the eye operation of Vivien (see link below). Since this time, she sees again without eyeglasses and contact lens, like an eagle! Already on the way from the airport to the city we were fascinated by the fairy taleful silhouette with their innumerable domes and minarets. Again and again we drove along on parts of the 21 km long and very massive city-wall.
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